Close your eyes for a moment and imagine you are there. Waves crashing against a mildewed sea wall. A young couple cavorting in a dark, dilapidated alley. Guitars and voices harmonizing over a syncopated drum rhythm. Sunlight slanting across rotten peeling paintwork. A handsome youth in a guayabera shirt leaning against a Lada. The smell of diesel fumes and cheap aftershave. Tourists with Hemingway beards. Che Guevara on a billboard.
No one could have invented Havana . It’s too audacious, too contradictory, and- despite 50 years of withering neglect- too damned beautiful. How it does it, is anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the history, the survivalist spirit, or the salsa energy that ricochets off walls and emanates most emphatically from the people. Don’t come here looking for answers. Just arrive with an open mind and prepare yourself for a long, slow seduction.
On the drive from Vinales to Havana, we stopped at a beautiful botanical garden in the countryside.
- A Tocororo, Cuba’s national bird. Photo taken by Amber Bauer
We arrived in the city with enough time to eat lunch, rest up, and dress up for the evening’s festivities. We would be going to an outdoor party at the Cathedral Plaza in Old Havana.
- Views from my balcony
- All dressed up for a Havana night
The party was a very elaborate affair. I think we all had mixed feelings about it. It was very nice, but very fancy and a bit over the top. The party was $200 a person, and none of us would ever pay that for a party on our own. Also, that is about 8 months pay for a Cuban. After spending the last 10 days staying in Cuban homes, we were all of the sudden amongst the crowds from the cruise ships and fancy hotels and resorts, so it was a bit of a culture shock. Some of us stayed for the dinner, live music, and some dancing, but headed to another party on one of the casa’s rooftop terraces shortly before midnight. At the fancy party, they had provided favors- noise makers, hats, and flower necklaces. Most of us just throw that stuff away after using it, I left mine on the table. Well, on the way out of the party, there were several kids hanging around wanting the favors from the party. They really wanted those toys and I felt guilty for thinking of it as junk.
- Pig roasting on the city street
- The Cathedral Plaza lit up for the party
- The food was excellent, and there was SO much of it
- An excellent live band
I’m not sure how, but it seems that the moon was full all of the nights from Christmas Eve to New Year’s Eve?! How is that possible. I remember seeing it full on Christmas Eve in Remedios, from a rooftop terrace in Cienfuegos a few nights later, and from a rooftop terrace in Havana also.
- Photo taken by Amber Bauer
Another interesting tidbit about Havana…. I noticed that Cubans walk in the middle of the street through the city, they never walk on the sidewalks. It was explained to me that there have been times when the balconies above have just collapsed and fallen into the street, so that’s why!
On New Year’s day, we all slept in a bit and then went on a tour of the city in a classic car. This was so much fun! Faye, Fred, Amber, and I rode with our driver Reinaldo in a 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air.
A quick stop at Sloppy Joe’s bar first. Some of us had coffee and some of us needed hair of the dog.
- You just cannot top this style! 😉
- Havana has a China town
Plaza de la Revolucion
- Che Guevara
- Camilo Cienfuegos
In the new part of Havana, we stopped at a beautiful riverside park. There were some vultures hanging around. Manny explained that they were after the chicken remains. Cubans use this park sometimes at night for Santeria ceremonies.
- A coco taxi
We continued in the classic car through the embassy district, and a small part of the malecon.
- The new US embassy
- Venezuelan embassy
- Malecon
We stopped at the National Hotel for drinks. I felt like such a high roller.
Then we jumped into coco taxis to cruise the rest of the Malecon. So much fun!
- Christ statue
- Malecon
- Havana’s port- mostly Italian cruise ships
After a late lunch, we started our walking tour of Old Havana.
- Plaza Vieja
- This represents prostitution.
- The caballero de Paris statue. You touch his beard for good luck
- Saint Francis statue
- This represents gossip as a national pastime of Cuba. Que chismosa son la gente
- Cuba’s first mosque. Just opened in June 2015
- There were lots of antiques and vintage books for sale on this street.
- Hotel Ambos Mundos. Hemingway used to stay here, because it had the best view of the sunset. His room is now a museum.
- Gran Teatro. After 3 years of restoration, it was the grand re-opening on the day we were there! Some of the streets were closed because Raul Castro was there.
- The Capitol building. Also under restoration.
- A puppy and rat out for a walk
- La Floridita. Hemingway was a regular
After a full day of sightseeing, we met for a final dinner in the new part of Havana. We said our goodbyes to Manolo, our wonderful guide, and to each other. Some of us were flying out the next day, while others would have an extra day or two in Havana.
Highly recommended Casas Particulares stayed at in Havana: Casa Alta on Calle San Ignacio and Casa Vieja Hostal on Calle Habana.
Sources: Lonely Planet Cuba guidebook 2015, Locally Sourced Cuba Tours
- Andy
Very interesting, maybe I’ll make it one day.
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Lets go for a week in late March or early April. Invite Doris. I’ll be your guide and arrange all hotel and transport logistics.
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